Hook-Kon Spring Looping Tool

Anyone who can operate a pair of pliers can, with a little practice, make accurate length springs, with correctly looped ends, with a HOOK-KON Spring Looping Tool. There is no complex technique to be mastered. The tool itself does all the forming-guides and stresses the final turn of the precut spring into a "full" or "hook" loop, as desired, with one squeeze on the handles. Applying power thru approximately 4 to 1 leverage, this "hand tool" readily forms loops or hooks on springs up to 1/2" diameter made from wire up to .062" diameter. Two interchangeable forming punches are provided, the smaller one is for wire up to .025" diameter (Fig. 1).

Adjustments for forming a center loop is made by positioning the top of the adjustable shoe one-half of the diameter of the spring plus the thickness of the wire, below the top of the die block (Dimension "D" Fig. 2). Adjust the forming punch in the upper jaw so that it just touches both the side of the die block and adjustable shoe when the jaws are closed (Fig. 2).

As illustrated in the progressive pictures, single loops are made by placing the spring between the open jaws of the HOOK-KON so that the corner of the die block comes between the first and second coils of the spring (Fig. 3). In this way, only the end coil of the spring will rest on the top of the die block. Close jaws until the "V"-notch of the forming punch rests astride the first full coil. Applying pressure takes loop through progressive stages shown in Figs. 5 and 6 to finished loop shown in Fig. 7.

For making side loops, adjustable shoe is retracted at least the diameter of spring plus thickness of wire, but may also be fully retracted, as it is not needed for side loops (Fig. 8).

For double loops, position spring on die block between second and third loop.

The position of the end of the wire will determine the type of hook or loop to be formed, If a 'lull loop" is desired, position the spring so that the end of the wire is immediately adjacent to or touching the side of the punch (Fig. 3). For an "open hook", the end of the wire should be a quarter turn away from the punch.